Bringing wine down to Earth


The Wine Industry Complicated Chemical Romance

Staff Reports

Viticulture is without a doubt a labor of love. Outside of the powerful presence of climate and the intimate influence of terroir on the vineyards, there is a strong connection to the place and the people cultivating the grapes that has been forged since the beginning of civilization and the dawn of agriculture. 

These professionals have a strong relationship with the land. They nurture it, listen to it, feel it, honor it. Over time, these individuals develop a full and complete understanding of the needs of their grapes, the vines and overall land. With that amount of care and attention, there comes a heaping dose of concern and worry these days. 

Long ago and many, many moons before chemical-based herbicides, pesticides and fertilizers were dreamt up in a scientist’s mind, winemakers found natural, organic ways of managing issues related to fertilization and pest control. 

Organic farming in wine is all about growing grapes without synthetic chemicals—no artificial pesticides, herbicides, or fertilizers. It’s a method that prioritizes soil health, biodiversity and natural balance. The goal is to produce more environmentally friendly wines that also contain minimal additives. Organic viticulture represents a meaningful shift in how the industry thinks about farming and their connection to the land.

The modern organic movement took root in the 1940s and ’50s as a response to the rise of industrial agriculture and chemical-based farming. The goal was efficiency, and it worked—at least for a while. In wine, organic practices began gaining momentum in the 1970s, especially in Europe and California, as growers looked for healthier, more sustainable ways to farm. Today, countries like France, Italy, and Spain lead the way in organic vineyard acreage, and global demand for organic wine continues to rise.

Why does it matter? Organic farming protects ecosystems, promotes healthier soil, and reduces chemical runoff into waterways. It also supports greater transparency and traceability in the bottle. For wine lovers, organic wines offer a chance to enjoy a more natural expression of terroir—one that respects the land, the environment, and the people who cultivate it.

Today, while many vineyards still use some chemicals, there’s a growing commitment to reducing synthetic inputs. The rise of regenerative agriculture, sustainable certifications, and organic wine labels reflects a collective effort to restore balance in the vineyard—focusing not just on the quality of the wine, but also the health of the land it comes from. And the movement continues to accelerate, picking up more and more speed with the help of younger consumers. 

Farming Guided by the Moon and Beyond

In an age of industrial agriculture and climate concerns, biodynamic farming offers an unusual yet rooted alternative—one that reconnects farming with nature’s rhythms and winemaking with a deeper sense of place and purpose.

Biodynamic farming might sound mystical to many consumers, and in many ways, it is. Entrenched in spiritual philosophy, this agricultural approach views the vineyard as a living, interconnected organism—and it is gaining traction in the wine world for both its unique methods and its commitment to integrated, sustainable practices. It is essentially a holistic and ecological – and some believe moral – approach to farming, gardening, food, wine and overall nutrition.

While some critics dismiss the cosmic aspects as pseudoscience, many winemakers swear by the results: healthier vines, greater biodiversity, and wines that express their terroir more vividly. And to help validate the practice, Biodynamic certification is administered by organizations like Demeter, which requires rigorous adherence to both organic and biodynamic standards.

The concept was developed in the 1920s by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner, who believed modern farming techniques were depleting the vitality of the land. He proposed a system that combined organic agriculture with spiritual science, incorporating lunar and cosmic rhythms into planting, pruning, and harvesting schedules. According to biodynamic principles, the position of the moon, planets, and stars can influence plant growth, much like tides are influenced by the moon.

What makes biodynamic viticulture stand out is its use of special preparations—think compost mixed with herbs like yarrow or chamomile, or cow manure buried in a horn and fermented underground through the winter. These are applied in homeopathic doses to stimulate soil and plant health, rather than as direct fertilizers.

The wines produced in a biodynamic style are produced very much like organic wines. There are no added sulfites. And the focus is on allowing the wine to become what it is destined to be by nature and not by mankind.

Balancing Quality, Community And The Planet

Many farmers are fearful that the worst-case-scenario could quite well become a tragic reality: That is that their land and their industry won’t survive for future generations. 

This is where sustainable farming comes into the picture. Sustainability looks at the long-term ecological, economical and socially responsible practices of farming. And as climate change increasingly affects wine regions worldwide—altering weather patterns, water availability, and grape quality—sustainability has become more urgent.

Sustainability in wine is a comprehensive approach that seeks to balance environmental stewardship, social responsibility and economic viability. Unlike organic or biodynamic farming, which focus primarily on vineyard practices, sustainability covers the entire winemaking process, from grape to glass.

It’s about limiting the environmental footprint while also ensuring that wine production supports the well-being of people and ecosystems for generations to come. That could involve using cover crops and natural pest control in the vineyard, installing solar panels to reduce energy use, recycling wastewater, paying fair wages to workers, minimizing transportation emissions, protecting the surrounding wildlife and being mindful of the communities it serves. However, sustainable farming often overlaps with organic and/or biodynamic practices. 

Its roots trace back to the 1980s and ’90s, when winemakers—especially in regions like California and New Zealand—began to recognize the long-term impacts of conventional farming and resource use. They started to adopt practices that protect the land, conserve water, reduce chemical use, and support local communities. 

These farmers want to remedy mistakes made from the past and look into regenerative agriculture methods. They are thinking about the greater impact farming is having on the world and finding ways for the land to sustain itself for years to come.

At the heart of it, sustainable agriculture is about being a much more responsible and better corporate citizen with eyes set firmly on the future.

Sustainable wine offers a way to enjoy a great glass while knowing it was crafted with care for the earth and its people.

Charles Springfield is a certified sommelier, wine educator and book author in New York City. His mission is to help promote wine appreciation through education in the form of classes, events and various forms of media. He has been working in wine in NYC for the last 15 years. His first book, “The Less is More Approach to Wine,” works to deliver wine education in easy to understand and manageable servings. He wants to help wine lovers create a deeper, more personal relationship with wine. In the summer of 2020, Charles released a new book called “Maneuvering Rosé Wine With Style” focused on educating consumers about the rosé wine category and rosé styles from around the world. In January 2025, Charles became publisher and editor-in-chief of DION, a digital wine/lifestyle monthly magazine, centering stories on the Black community and marginalized cousin-communities. For more info, visit @thewinestylings and @dionwinelifemagazine on Instagram or at www.charlesspringfield.com.